Riding the Angry Sauce

So I promised my doctor I wouldn’t go in the water until February 20.
I lied.
After 10 days of “Calendula” Marigold salve on my shoulder, the waves of Salsa Brava (literally “Angry Sauce” in Spanish) called my name.
I am surfing a break that is legendary and takes me up and down the Costa Rican/Panamanian coast.
This is where people get lost in nothingness.
I am embracing the somethingness of this vast nothingness.

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